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The
Oregon dunes are...sensual, frightening, awe-inspiring, fascinating,
alive. I fell in love with the Oregon dunes. Lenore literally fell
in into a patch of quicksand (that was the frightening bit)!
The
dunes lie beneath the sky like a tanned and naked woman: languid
spread-eagled thighs of sand; jutting hips; hollow navels; rounded
bellies; pubic mounds. Even the tufts of grasses resemble pubic
hair. I am transported by the sexiness of the dunes. This is mother
nature at her most voluptuous.
There's
a whole secret life going on here. Criss-crossing the sand are scores
of traces whose animal creators we never see: a scuttling beetle,
a deer on its way to water, a worm, a rabbit. There are dozens of
spoor we cannot identify. One anonymous creature emerged from a
tiny hole in the sand, crawled sinuously for a metre or so and then
disappeared down another burrow. Why? What was it? There a traces
of animals with tails, that hop or scurry.
The plants, too, leave signatures in the sand, sweeping faint arcs
as they are buffeted by the wind that creates these dunes. In a
couple of places the semicircular traces of leaves are all that
remains the plant has snapped off and blown away.
As
you leave the camp site there is a mass of human footsteps, but
then they begin to scatter and thin out, until you enter areas of
dune where yours are the first prints to disturb the surface of
virgin sand, and where you feel a sense of slight indignation when
you come across the route of some earlier visitor! Many are put
off by the thick vegetation and stagnant pools that lie behind the
fore dune, so by the time we wade through and arrive at the beach
we are the only humans in sight. You could frolic naked here, except
that it is too cold!
Mile
after mile of firm white sand is littered with driftwood and the
dead bodies of small crustaceans. Flocks of energetic plovers hurry
along the edge of the surf. They have the endearing habit of retreating
before each wave, only to trot down the sand again as the wave subsided.
They stand on one leg to rest, and as we approach, hop sideways
faster and faster until they remember that they have two legs
and began to run.
Whale
backs gleam in the waves as they swim northwards, gasping and hissing.
A sea lion plays tag with us for a while.
The
only bad thing about the dunes is their use by ATVs, horrid little
things that buzz like dozens of lawnmowers as their drivers do exciting
things like driving to the top of a dune, and then down again, then
up again and then down... Humans are so amazingly like hamsters
in exercise wheels sometimes.
At
least there are some areas of the dunes where you can escape these
horrors, but even here you can often hear the ATVs in the distance,
and see their headlamps flashing at night.
Lenore,
playing with the almost-liquid sand at the bottom of a hollow, sinks
into it to her knees, and then her thighs. With me panicking ineffectually
on the semi-solid edge of the morass, she manages to crawl out,
plastered with damp sand. Would she have disappeared completely
in a deeper patch? I am reminded of Lorna Doone...

This
is a place of changing light, a photographer's dream. Evening shadows
make fascinating patterns. We watch wondrous sunsets.
|
OREGON |
| OREGON DUNES GALLERY
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LENORE'S
TRAVEL DIARY
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