We almost missed it. We almost baulked at the cost ($10) of driving 20km of park highway. But we decided, mostly persuaded by Erica's enthusiasm, to give it a go... and we are very glad we did!

Forget the other tourists. Forget the tawdry gift stores. Walk a few metres from the car parks and you will be transported. Even the paved trails don't detract from the fascination of this fossil logjam.

I have cursed ever since that my RC camera jammed and I lost a roll of what would have been amazing shots (the subjects, not my technique, I hasten to add). I think the best was of the juxtaposition of fossil timber and modern logs in a small homestead erected near the southern entrance to the park.

Even in the blankly-staring light of early afternoon, the colours resemble a giant oil-painter's messy palette. It must be wonderful at dawn or dusk.

Lenore and I wandered in opposite directions, awestruck.

As we wandered along the groomed trails we were overtaken by a tour group who were what can only be described as power-walking. Wearing all the most expensive gear, and laden with cameras, they were almost running along the trails. No doubt they were on a "See the USA in seven days" trip... Trouble was they were so busy walking and talking they were ignoring the sights that surrounded them. Ho hum.

At the park's northern end you drive past the fringe of the Painted Desert, which is surely as splendid as any desert in the world, its colours more smudged and sooty than the petrified forest.

At Newspaper Rock we peer uncomprehendingly at petroglyphs that are both beautiful and terrifying in their secrecy.

ARIZONA

LENORE'S TRAVEL DIARY

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